5 Things I’m Crushin’ On

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In honor of Valentine’s Day, America’s most hated holiday, I would like to share five little things that make my life better somehow. You know, things that you can’t get enough of and give you the happy butterflies because, let’s be honest, they are crush worthy. And while I obviously have a crush on my husband, I’m focusing on things that are garden, cooking and DIY related today. If you have anything to add, let me know in the comments!

This is not a sponsored post, I just love these products.

1. Digz Women’s Signature Series Work Gloves

If you’re a gardener, you know that the big, clunky leather work gloves that you can get cheaply at the home improvement store aren’t that great for more detailed garden work like pulling small weeds or planting seeds. I have a crush on these because they make it easier to garden and are great for protecting my hands on other home improvement projects, too. They keep my hands warm when it’s cool outside plus they’re cute. Digz gloves are sold at Home Depot and a few other stores for about $10 per pair and they have several different types besides this all-around work glove so you can find a pair that work best for your activities.

2. Best Pan Pizza Ever (from Serious Eats)
panpizza
My husband may have a bigger crush on this pizza than I do but it still changed my pizza-world. While this recipe takes time, if you’re going to make a pizza to impress folks (or your significant other) this is the one. I recently used the dough I had frozen from my first attempt at this to make a pizza when my father-in-law was in town and it turned out just as good as the one that never was frozen. Sounds like I’ll be making a bigger batch next time to have this stuff on hand for whenever we get a pizza craving because this pizza is so much better than delivery! Plus I can justify it by calling it healthier since I make it from scratch and use some wheat flour in the dough. Bam, health food.

3. Muck Boots

Don’t tell my husband, but his big surprise Christmas gift to me this year confused me at first. Then prompted jokes from me of, “Are you trying to turn me into a grandma!?!” (No offense grandma, I don’t mean you.) Then I tried on my new gardening shoes for the first time. Pretty comfy. Then I used them on a chilly day in the garden for the first time and realized, “These are like wetsuits for my FEET.” These. Are. Awesome. They keep my feet warm and dry but are breathable for when it gets hot. They’re easy to clean so I don’t mind tromping through mud. And did I mention that they are super comfortable? I might be slowly turning into an old lady, but these are so great for gardening I slip into them even if I’m just walking outside for a second to take the garbage out. Thanks, husband, you done good.

4. DIY wine rack above our refrigerator

My crush on the DIY wine rack my dad built is an ongoing one because it makes it easy to see at a glance if we are ready for entertaining! My husband and I don’t drink much when it’s just us but we almost always open a bottle of wine for guests. Our wine rack has bottles of red on the left and whites on the right so we can tell when it’s time to stock up on one or the other. Over the weekend we were looking a little empty in the wine department so we knew we could stock up during a trip to the winery we are members of. Easy access to all the bottles, storage and looking organized make this priceless.

5. 12-inch Cast Iron Pan

The cast iron pan my grandma gave me a few months ago has become a regular fixture in our kitchen. It’s one of those things I never missed before I had it, but now that I do I use it almost weekly. Aside from cooking bacon in it, most things I use it for aren’t even meaty (we don’t eat much meat). I’ve used it for pumpkin cornbread, cheeserolls, pan pizza, toasting bread, and anything that needs a surface that browns evenly. I’d like to try cooking pancakes in it soon to see how that goes. I like that it is a huge pan (a typical cast iron pan is 9-10″) and have learned that adding 50% to a recipe will fill my pan if I’m using a recipe for a smaller pan.

Anything in your life that you’re crushin’ on big time lately that makes things easier for you? Maybe your favorite health product or your favorite bacon product? You know, whatever.

Best Homemade Pan Pizza (Ever)

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My husband is an East Coaster. Specifically, he grew up in Massachusetts and went to school in Downtown Boston. Needless to say, he’s had his fair share (and then some of pizza). Good, East Coast, legit pizza. Now we live on the West Coast. And while I– the West Coaster– would argue it’s not all bad here, there are less pizza options in general and more crappy ones in California. My disclaimer is that there are some really superior ones in Northern California that sort of balance things out.

When it boils down to it, it really depends on what your ideal pizza is. If you prefer greasy chain pizza, well then you are in luck, you can find that most anywhere. If you’re after an authentic Italian Neapolitan, then your average delivery place isn’t going to cut it. Deep dish? That’s a smaller cut of the pizza market but depending where you live, it’s out there (and we have some really excellent versions of it in this area). However, a true pizza lover probably has a wide appreciation for several different types of pizza, right? And trumping all the restaurants is a really good homemade pizza if you ask me.
panpizza

This is by far, the BEST pizza I’ve ever made at home. It’s baked in a cast iron skillet –that I used earlier in the day for a batch of bacon– so it’s really a “pan pizza” similar to what you might get from Pizza Hut. I got the recipe from Serious Eats for this Foolproof Pan Pizza. It’s no-knead, no-stretch. And while it certainly takes a lot longer than any pizza recipe I’ve used before (with an 8-24 hr. first rise) if you start the day before and give it that full rise time the dough becomes a beautifully yeasty, bubbly, wet thing. Dare I say that it’s a downright sexy dough? I do dare. Yes, I do.

We topped ours with the recommended New York Style Pizza Sauce using my own canned Roma tomatoes. Then a dry grated mozzarella (the recipe says using fresh mozzarella would be too wet) and the only pepperoni we could find at the market– aka Whole Foods, but I’m embarrassed to mention I shop there sometimes– with a sprinkle of parmesan when it came out of the oven. And you know what my husband, the ultimate pizza critic, told me? “This is the best pizza I’ve ever had in California.” And I’ll take it.

The recipe makes enough for two pizzas and for my 12″ cast iron pan (thanks, Grandma for the hand-me-down!) the recipe has 50% added for each measurement. But this also means that in the freezer there is another ball of this lovely dough waiting to be defrosted and baked into some pizza magic next time my husband tells me, “I feel like pizza.” Or, you know, every night.

Does anyone have any go-to pizza recipes that they swear by?

Young House Love Book Signing (aka Meeting DIY Superstars)

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In the world of blogs, John and Sherry of Young House Love could be considered celebrities. Blogebrities? Blobrities? Superstars. Their DIY/decor/house-stuff blog receives over FIVE MILLION hits per month. So you probably should already know about them and if not, get on the gravy train already! They have a young daughter, a sometimes-energetic chihuahua and an endearing way of writing their posts that appeals to readers of all ages and genders. You’ve seen them mentioned on my blog before for their Pinterest Challenges (summer edition and winter edition) and if you follow me on Instagram (@alannaface) you know I pre-ordered their first book and recently went to the book signing in Palo Alto, CA.

booksigningGuys, I’m trying not to sound like a superfan right now, I swear. But I was so excited to meet folks whose life and DIY projects (and some other subjects for good measure) I’ve been reading about for the past few years. On Sunday my husband — the most wonderful, caring, tolerant husband ever– and I headed out to get to the book signing which was only 20 minutes from where we live. We got there an hour before the signing and there were only about 30ish people in line. I can tell you the line very quickly grew and was around the block an hour later.

I’ve never been to a book signing before but I’m pretty sure we were spoiled by this one. Hosted by a upscale home decor shop, West Elm, there were waiters coming down the line with sweets and the world’s most adorable chocolate milkshakes.

minishakeWhen the doors opened at 11am the line moved into the store and we waited for about another hour. While my husband focused on listening to tunes, I met another blogger, Kelly of My Friend Kelly, and Erin and her husband (Instagram @twinsmum11) both of whom traveled from the Sacramento area which is a couple hours away for the signing!

Once inside, the ubiquitous Young House Love cookies appeared– a version of these cookies have been at every one of their West Elm book tour stops created by a local baker. I promise I didn’t take two, I took a giant blue house and Kelly took the heart so we could snap a picture!

cookiesEven the husband approved of these gussied up sugar cookies while waiting in the pillow section of West Elm.

husbandAfter passing some lamps, the dining area, the terrarium and then the ceramic animal sections of West Elm, we were finally in sight of the authors. Finally! I had no idea what I was going to say to them so I asked my husband — who was going to be on picture duty– what I should say. He told me, “Just don’t pull a Jodie Foster.” Good call. That’s why I brought him along.

When it was finally my turn to give them my book I told them I wasn’t going to pull a Jodie Foster and they both perked right up and played along. I think they expected me to make a big announcement that I don’t actually make and then I sort of make it…. And then it was my turn to grab a picture with them. I inserted myself between them and told them I would just “lurk” in the background between them. They may have been scared. But I got my picture!

yhlAnd then it was over. I mean, I saw Sherry’s pinned back bangs (which have been mentioned about a million times by other blog readers) and I couldn’t wipe the grin off my face. But I did want to point one other thing out… they had one of the ceramic animals from the store on the table:

yhlturtleI was curious if someone had been moving through the line and just was like, “Here I grabbed this turtle for you!” or what. Hmmm.

After getting the book signed and a shot with them it was our turn to sign their guest book. Below is a shot of Erin (with her husband behind her) signing the book while Kelly waits off to the right. Also happening in this picture, sort of behind her husband are where John and Sherry were sitting. The guy in the blue sweater is a store employee and all those googly eyed smiling people to the left are the folks who are enchanted with the authors and waiting for their books to be signed. Guess it wasn’t just me.

guestbookNot sure how another book signing could beat this experience which was all around exciting and fun and wonderful. It was a total of two hours from start to finish but I met some cool people in line and had a brief encounter with some folks who are awesome authors. I will definitely continue to be a fan and reader of Young House Love and I can’t wait to get started on some of the projects in their book.

Have you ever been to a book signing before? How about met someone you’ve been looking forward to meeting and then had verbal diarrhea when you finally met them? Yeah, me too.

Multi-Grain Sourdough Boule Recipe

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bread-aSourdough starter came up a few months ago as it relates to my quest for the perfect cheese roll I ended up borrowing my aunt’s Cheese Board Collective Cookbook (a local place in Berkeley, CA) so that I could follow their recipe for a sourdough starter of my own. This particular starter only calls for rye flour, bread flour, water and 11 days of constant feedings and patience before you have a sour smelling culture of bacteria ready to be added to bread. Right away I went to work creating my sourdough bread with just the starter, flour, water and salt. And my first two attempts weren’t so good producing flat, dense, white bread. I learned that adding some yeast (as in my new favorite sourdough cheese roll recipe) helps the whole bread along.

When I came across another King Arthur Flour recipe using sourdough and yeast to produce a multi-grain boule (a round of bread) I got to work. The recipe below is based on the King Arthur recipe and I will try and note where I have made changes. Most importantly, I’ve tried to make it so you can swap out the specialized ingredients and make good bread with just starter, yeast, salt and flour. If you don’t have your own starter, you can easily make your own, buy some from King Arthur’s website, or contact me and I will send you some if you cover the cost. Sharing is caring! This recipe has now taken the place of buying weekly bread from the store and I’ve made it every weekend for the past three weeks so I’m confident it’s a good one.

Before you even start baking you should make sure you have at least two cups of active starter (with enough extra to feed and continue the starter). Your starter should have large bubbles around the size of the tip of your pinky. If your starter needs to be fed and made active (like if you just took it out of the refrigerator) you should feed it 3-12 hours before baking with it.

The first thing we make is a “soaker” with 1 cup of boiling water and about 2/3 up to 1 cup of grain. If you don’t have any grain (ex. cornmeal, flax seed, bulgur, millet, etc.) then you can use the water only and omit the grain. King Arthur uses a “Harvest Grain Blend” with whole oat berries, millet, rye flakes, wheat flakes, flax, poppy, sesame, and sunflower seeds so feel free to use any of those in your own blend. I use multi-grain cornmeal and bulgur for 2/3 cup total soaker. Add it to your water and let it sit until the grains have softened, at minimum 15 minutes but up to an hour.

bread1While the soaker is doing its thing, prepare your other ingredients. The below image does not include everything in the dough but I wanted to let you see the different flours clearly and the bubbles in an active starter. See them all over that gloopy starter? That’s a good thing. For my recipe I use some rye flour for extra flavor but feel free to swap it out for wheat flour.

bread2What’s the difference between “instant” or “rapid rise” yeast and “active” yeast? Technically the first two don’t have to be “activated” while the latter should be “activated” before adding to the recipe with a little sugar in water. I’ve tried both in this recipe and either one will work.

Dump all the dough ingredients into a mixing bowl. If you don’t want to add the two tablespoons of olive oil, you can omit it with no problem. I like the flavor so I leave it in.

bread3Can you use a mixer? Sure. Can you use a food processor? Sure. Bread machine? Yes. But if you are able to do this by hand I recommend it to save on things you have to dirty. Use a spoon to mix everything as best you can and then use your hands to bring the rest of the flour that’s stuck on the bottom of the bowl into the dough. I also prefer to do my kneading in the bowl so I don’t have to worry about another surface to clean up afterwards because this is a pretty soft, tacky dough. It only takes five minutes of kneading (yup, only 5!) but feel free to do a little more if you want. It’s hard to over knead when you’re doing it by hand. Below is a shot right before I removed the spoon and switched to my hands.

bread4Once it’s kneaded, pick up the dough, spray or drizzle a little olive oil in there, spread it around and plop the dough back in. Cover it with a towel or plastic wrap and let rise 1 – 1.5 hours. You can also put the dough in the refrigerator overnight at this point then continue the next morning.

bread5Once the dough has risen, prepare a cast iron baker (like a Le Creuset). You can use a 5-quart baker here but mine happens to be 7-quarts. If you have one of the oval ones, that works, too. Liberally brush or spray the bottom of the baker with olive oil and sprinkle with cornmeal. I say “liberally” because I had some sticking issues the first two times I made this, but the pot below released the bread with no issues. If you don’t have  a baker, you can also use a sheet pan but will need to slightly adjust baking times.

bread6The next step is to turn your dough out onto a greased surface. Unless you don’t mind oil on your countertop, use a baking sheet brushed or sprayed with olive oil. I set mine on a kitchen towel so it stays in place. Fold the dough over a few times to deflate, then shape into a boule.

bread7Never shaped a boule before? Use your hands to create surface tension by gently pulling down as you turn the bread and tuck under. Ideally while wearing a sweater that matches your baker. Yes, it’s my favorite color. Duh. Anyhow, to demonstrate, this is how the bottom of my dough looks once I’ve mushed the dough under gently. Kind of like a brain.

bread8Once shaped, the boule goes into the baker for the final rise for 1 – 1.5 hours.

bread9When your last rise has been done, your bread will be looking mighty fine.

bread10Preheat your oven to 425°F and get your seed topping ready. You can skip the seed topping or just do one type like sesame seeds but I like to mix it up and use what I have on hand: 1/4 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. fresh cracked black pepper, 1/2 tsp. each of sesame, poppy and fennel seeds. Mix together with your fingers.

Next, spray, slash and seed. Spray with water (or use a brush again), slash with a lame, razor or sharp knife into a cross hatch pattern, then sprinkle your seed topping.

bread11Your bread has good surface tension if the slashes immediately start to open. Congrats! Cover and put it in the oven for 40 minutes, then remove the cover and bake 10-15 minutes more.

bread12Bam, fresh bread. Great for everything you do with bread. Let it cool off (you know you’re not supposed to cut into fresh-out-of-the-oven bread just like you wouldn’t cut into a hot steak, right?) then dig in. The crust is crackly, the inside tender and hearty.

bread13I recently read a great book, 52 Loaves, and learned that bread should be stored cut side down on a dish (we use an oval platter) to keep it fresh. Out on the counter. I couldn’t believe it but this bread stays out all week this way and never gets stale. Ready for the beauty shot?

bread14This is hands-down the easiest bread recipe I’ve ever made and one of the best. We can actually make sandwiches and toast out of it so it has completely replaced store-bought bread in our house. Here’s the recipe, enjoy!

Multi-Grain Sourdough Boule
(Adapted from King Arthur Flour)
Hands-on time: 25 mins. to 35 mins.; Baking time: 38 mins. to 55 mins.; Total time: 2 hrs 3 mins. to 3 hrs
Yield: 1 large round loaf

Soaker
• 1 cup boiling water
• 1/3 cup coarse whole-grain polenta or corn grits (like Bob’s Red Mill)
• 1/3 cup bulgur wheat (like Trader Joe’s or Bob’s Red Mill)

Dough
• 2 cups sourdough starter, fed and ready to use
• 3/4 cup rye flour (like Bob’s Red Mill; or use wheat flour here, too)
• 1 cup whole wheat flour
• 1 3/4 cups Artisan Bread Flour or Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
• 3 teaspoons salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast (or 1 packet)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Topping
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, or your favorite blend of seeds (1/4 tsp. salt, 1/4 tsp. fresh cracked black pepper, 1/2 tsp. each of sesame, poppy and fennel seeds)

Directions
1. Add the corn polenta and bulgur to the boiling water and soak for 15 minutes to an hour to soften grains. Allow water to cool to lukewarm.

2. When cooled, add the water/grain mix and the remaining dough ingredients (through oil) to a large mixing bowl. Combine ingredients and knead – by hand, mixer, bread machine or food processor – until you’ve made a soft dough, adding additional water or flour as needed. With any method, you only need to knead for about 5 minutes, less if using a mixer or food processor.

3. Cover the dough in the bowl, and let it rise until it’s almost doubled, about 1 to 1.5 hours.

4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly greased work surface, and gently fold it over a few times to deflate it. Shape it into a large round by gently pulling sides toward the bottom of the round to create surface tension.

5. Cover the round with lightly greased plastic wrap or place in a round covered baker that’s been sprayed with non-stick baking spray or brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with sesame seeds or cornmeal, and put on the cover. Let the loaf rise until it’s very puffy, about 1 to 1.5 hours. Towards the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 425°F.

6. Just before baking, brush or spray with water, and sprinkle with seed topping. Use a lame or a very sharp knife to make four slashes across the top of the loaf, in a crosshatch pattern.

7. Bake the bread for 40 minutes. Uncover the loaf if in a covered baker, and continue to bake 10 to 15 minutes, until the loaf is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center registers 190°F. (A loaf baked on a baking sheet will need to bake for 38 to 45 minutes total.)

8. Remove the bread from the oven, let sit in the baker for 5 minutes, then turn out and cool on a rack. (Note: If you use a baker, the bread may slightly stick on the bottom if there wasn’t enough oil/cornmeal. Use a silicon spatula to loosen the loaf before gently removing.)

22 Pounds of Pumpkin

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Each year I spend time breaking down a large pumpkin to be stored in the freezer in puree and/or chunks. Last year I had one large pumpkin that was used in pumpkin curries, pumpkin bread, pumpkin pie and more. This year, I had three small pumpkins and one very, very large and dense heirloom pumpkin. My largest pumpkin, weighing in at over 22 pounds, was featured on our Thanksgiving table this November before it was moved to our fireplace mantle (the pilot light has been off, no fires!) until I decided to use it.


The time finally came on Sunday when I was inspecting the pumpkin to make sure it was still holding up and noticed there was some kind of mite that had made its home in the deep crevices of this behemoth. Time for the knife!

knifepumpkin
I’m not sharing a picture of the bugs because, ew. But I cleaned them out then sliced this pumpkin open. And yes, that is a bottle of vodka, my second loaf of fresh bread and my compost bucket on my counter. This is real life.

I almost went to fix this next picture because I thought maybe the tint was off. I mean, it’s so orange. Then I realized that the rest of the picture is fine. These Musque de Provence pumpkins are super vibrantly colored with an orangish red hue. Absolutely beautiful for anything where you see the squash.
orangepumpkinMore importantly… look how dense this pumpkin is!!! I couldn’t believe my eyes. No wonder this big boy weighed over 22 pounds when fresh– it had hardly any space in the middle like most pumpkins. In fact, the hollow middle was so small there was only one seed. Yup. And the goop you have to scrape out? Maybe 1/3 of a cup total. By comparison, my largest small pumpkin which was slightly larger than a softball had about the same amount of space inside of it and about a cup of seeds not including goop.

largepumpkinThe down side of having so gosh darn much pumpkin is that it would take hours to fully bake this squash down. Instead, I plopped it in the oven for an hour then finally gave up and decided to break it down just barely softened. The hour in the oven helped the skin come away from the flesh though most of the pumpkin was still crunchy. Out came the food processor and I worked away removing skin, chopping up squash, and pureeing.

I actually decided not to freeze any cubes this time because after sitting out for over a month the flesh had become a little stringy from drying out and wouldn’t be so great in curry. Instead, I used about four quarts of puree for pumpkin butter and froze the rest in different cup measurements to be used later (bread, muffins, soup, pie, empanadas, etc.). Also, near the end I starting being a little more free with throwing bits of skin out that still had some pumpkin attached so I didn’t 100% utilize absolutely all of the pumpkin but with four quarts of pumpkin butter and all this frozen pumpkin (almost 3 quarts), I’m fairly satisfied.

frozenpumpkinWanna know what else lives in my freezer besides ice? From upper left going clockwise: Potato pierogis from the farmer’s market, frozen pizza, tomatoes in a jar that I did not heat process like my other canned goods, turkey broth, tahini, liquor and limoncello, jar of bay leaves (laurel) from Manarola, Italy, greenbeans, fresh frozen ramen noodles, pumpkin (duh), pie crust and more turkey broth. You can’t see some frozen mean (chicken and beef), puff pastry, and all the frozen fruit, nuts and vegetables that live on the freezer door as well as a few other odds and ends. We don’t do a lot of processed foods in our home unless I’m the one doing the processing. But I digress!

Anyone have any fantastic pumpkin recipes to send my way? I’m a big fan of trying out savory uses for the squash that make it into dinner. Aside from curry and empanadas I mentioned above, I’ve used it to make savory scones and even used it instead of potatoes on a shepard’s pie. I skipped a few canning recipes this year since it was easier to just process everything in one go. Link me to your favorite pumpkin recipes!

Welcome to the Future

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Picture some tacky, clubby “unce unce” music coming on after reading that title, will ya? No? Not feeling it? I am. Because seriously, I think 2013 is going to be my lucky year. It’s my lucky number year, anyhow.

And I’m off to a good start. Last weekend I got out into the garden to cut back some of the roses. It’s a little early since you’re supposed to wait until you’re done getting frosts but our area never gets a hard frost so we should be fine. This weekend I’ll get around to more rose trimming, wisteria trimming/ training and then I’ll work on the two grape vines. My husband and I realize that we may have planted them too close and intend to transplant one to a new location and build a simple trellis for it this weekend. The garden doesn’t get ignored ever, even in winter! I’m still using produce including kale, limes, cilantro and some sort of ripe tomatoes that I’ve let stay on one piddly plant. I figure they’re no worse than tomatoes you buy in the store this time of year (tomatoes, are NOT in season, people!).

In my continuing quest to make edible bread (the early attempts of which I don’t believe I’ve shared in this space because they were a wee bit sad) — not to be confused with my quest to make the world’s best cheese rolls– I tried a King Arthur Flour recipe with great results. I’m going to see what I can do to make sure there’s plenty of healthy stuff in there and maybe eventually this bread, risen with both commercial yeast AND my sourdough starter, can replace store bought bread in our home? One can hope! I’ve been hearing more and more about locally grown and milled flours so that will be my next avenue in the bread world.

breadIt’s not all healthy bread baking and gardening, there’s infused vodka around these parts as well. Yuzu seems to be the new “golden” ingredient lately. It’s a citrus fruit that looks like a Mandarin orange except more yellow. It’s also quite fragrant and smells almost more like orange blossoms do than a citrus fruit. When I saw them next to the Mandarin oranges at our farmer’s market I grabbed one to try (and then the farmer “forced” a kiwi upon us that looks like three melded together, usually not sold in markets because they look funny and we devoured it). Most recipes focus on the fragrant peel of the fruit so, since I didn’t want to make a dessert infused with it, I went the easy route and peeled just the skin (leave the white pith out!) and put it in a jar of vodka. You may remember this method from my limoncello recipe. Eventually I can use the vodka as is or add simple syrup to make “yuzucello.” I’ll try and remember to make an update about how it turns out!

yuzuvodkaAnd on the home front, because gardening and making recipes aren’t all I do around here, I have a project that stares me right in the face each night. If you follow me on Pinterest you may have noticed my new closet obsession.

This view of our main bedroom (is it a “master” if the only difference between this bedroom and the other one is the addition of a closet?) hasn’t really been shared on the blog before. We have side-by-side standard closets that take up this entire wall despite the openings not really showing that aspect. When our house was built in 1947 I’m thinking that men and women each needed their own separate closet, no sharing! And also it was probably more cost effective to have the two smaller openings than making this some sort of larger door.

closetAs you might imagine, these dark (nope, no lights in them!) closets with a wall covering each side may be better accessed by opening the space, losing a couple of inches of wall separating them, and adding a 3-door sliding system so there’s no lost space. It would also mean we could add some closet organization stuff to make better use of the limited space. I’m trying to convince my husband this is a project I am totally capable of taking on (it’s just demo, right!?) minus the possible electrical work since there’s a plug that we had added where that small night stand is on that wall.  We will see how that goes! But since this is my lucky year, anything is possible!

That’s what’s happening around these parts. So tell me, ever taken out a wall on your own? Are you going to make some infused vodka or limoncello now that we’re in citrus season? Is your garden totally non-existent during winter in your parts or do you have some winter garden maintenance, too?

Italy Stop 7: Norcia

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Read Italy Stop 1: Rome here!
Read Italy Stop 2: Florence here!
Read Italy Stop 3: Manarola (Cinque Terre) here!
Read Italy Stop 4: Milan & Lake Maggiore here!
Read Italy Stop 5: Venice here!
Read Italy Stop 6: Bologna here!

This final destination on our 16 day Italian trip was added by yours truly because the guide book I was using, Italy for the Gourmet Traveler, proclaimed that Norcia out in the Umbrian countryside was the Mecca for food lovers. We would have one final night at a Rome airport hotel before flying out so our single night in Norcia was going to be a good one, I just knew it. Maybe my expectations were a little high? But the book said that this was the place to go in Italy for good food. Truffles. Pig parts. Cheese. Olive oil. Who cares if you drive several hours to get there! The drive is beautiful and you pass countless little towns perched on the verdant hills.

IMG_5290Granted you have to deal with Italian drivers who apparently have a habit of driving ON (or over) the lane lines for no discernible reason. Has anyone else noticed this in Italy? It was very common on our drives. But it was manageable.

IMG_5272We could deal with anything to have our final gourmet meal in Italy. With pig. And truffles. I will mention here that truffle oil is NOT the same as truffles. Smells kind of similar but they don’t use real truffles in it (that’s why it’s cheaper than a real truffle, duh) and it’s in fact simply made using the same/similar chemicals that make truffles smell the way they do. I think truffle oil smells terrible and makes things taste rancid, Chef Gordon Ramsey would agree. I’m worried anytime I see truffle oil on a menu. I’m pretty carefree about most food quality/preparation, but I am definitely a snob when it comes to truffle oil. It’s gross.

IMG_5299The above picture is a little blurry so I will tell you the sign says, “Norcia,” pronounced nore-cha, “State entrando nella zona del tartufo nero pregiato.” Entering the zone of the black truffle! There are also white truffles, for the record, but the really expensive ones are the winter black truffles that can be found in parts of Italy and France.

Eventually we came up to the walls of Norcia as the sun was setting.

IMG_1707This is a teeny little town mostly contained within walls. The image below is taken from right inside the walls and at the end of the street is the town center. Most of the people are Italian tourists or locals, not foreign tourists.

IMG_1709Surrounding the city on every side are farmland and hills.

IMG_0746And why do people come to Norcia? The pig parts!

IMG_1713And the truffles! The aroma of truffles spills out of the shops that are filled with them in many different forms: as a paste or spread, in jars, oil, pasta, chocolates… everything!

IMG_1710How well known are the pork butchers in Norcia? So well known that they are called “norcino” and once trained in Norcia can open a shop anywhere (but in practice, in Italy) called a “Norcineria.” For example, you may see a Norcineria in Rome but that butcher came from Norcia. They are known as the best butchers in Italy. These guys are so well known that even San Francisco has a bar with a meat counter called Norcino.

IMG_0748I tried to take a sneaky picture of the norcino but was spotted!

IMG_5302All over Norcia you see Norcinerias most often with legs of prosciutto out to dry and mounted boar heads. I was a little confused about the boar heads but since part of our meal was wild boar I guess that’s why they were there? Used for hunting truffles and eating?

IMG_5300We stayed and dined at Hotel Grotta Azzurra which was recommended by my gourmet traveler book. The room we had was fine, large for Italy. As for the restaurant, in the book, the another revels at how every bite of his meal — he ordered the “truffle menu”– was better than the next and you can’t go wrong here. We figured we’d enjoy our last meal here and headed down for dinner. My husband was amused that there was a mace, an axe and more taxidermy above my head. I guess they were playing up the “Umbria’s oldest restaurant” thing.

IMG_1715I had brought my camera with me to take pictures of the best meal we were going to have in Italy but ended up only taking maybe three pictures as our experience nose dived.

The service was disorganized and we experienced the most rushed meal in our whole trip (most meals are slow paced, calm and take hours, this one felt rushed and took just over an hour!). The food was practically cafeteria style– poorly executed dishes that were underwhelming either in the flavor department or because they weren’t cooked properly. Raw wild boar that’s burnt on one side? Mushy pasta? We relied on drinking table wine throughout our trip and except for one other time were pleased. The table wine here was dreadful and when we asked for white wine received red despite asking for it in Italian and English. I apologize for so many complaints but it would be one thing to have a good meal when you expected stellar but to have a bad meal was very disappointing.

And how did we like the truffles? Firstly, I’m glad that both of us didn’t get the vastly more expensive truffle menu. Secondly, they taste like mushrooms. They smell like more pungent mushrooms. Now, maybe the quality of the restaurant was what left us scratching our heads and asking, “What’s the big deal?” But in doing some online research (read: Googling) after our trip I saw that others had the same reaction. I will leave you with one picture from our meal (and not the one of the mushy pasta). This was my husband’s first truffle course which was cured wild boar and a truffle spread on bread.

IMG_1716The food wasn’t all bad in Norcia, though. We sought out a little bakery that was also noted in the book when we arrived. We picked up a few pasties including a ravioli which a pastry filled with fruit and often dipped in red wine (instead of milk!), something we learned during our cooking class in Bologna. The little shop was run by the most awesome nonna (grandma) lady. She was adorable. She spoke no English but had a cheat sheet of Enligsh phrases so she could tell you what was in each pastry. Though when she meant “cream” she would tell you it was “scream.”

IMG_0751The bakery was so good that my husband and I stopped by again before leaving town so we could bring some pastries home with us. As soon as we walked back in she recognized us and insisted my husband try a slice of what looked like ricotta pie? I don’t know. He inhaled it before I could even try it. Yup, that good.

IMG_0750With a very full bag of a bunch of pastries we headed back toward Rome to end our trip.

IMG_5306As we wound got outside of Norcia’s ancient walls, we stopped our tiny blue car to take in the countryside one more time. Here I am in the car while my husband took some photos.

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We did the drive back through the countryside toward Rome to drop off the car and enjoyed the views along the way as well as a stop at the ubiquitous Autogrill. These things are like the McDonald’s you see along highways throughout the US. Except with better food. And believe me, if you have to tinkle and stop at any old gas station, you just may find a hole-in-the-ground type “toilet” instead of a Western toilet.

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Back in Rome the very unhelpful staff at the airport Courtyard by Marriott checked us in and we set off with no insight of where to return the rental car. We eventually figured it out and found more unhelpful rental car staff before boarding a shuttle back to the hotel. With that done, we enjoyed appertivo in the hotel bar surrounded by other Americans spending one last night in Italy before early morning flights.

 

IMG_1721The above is somewhere over France and below, a view as we were descending into our London layover.

IMG_1723While Norcia was a bit of a disappointing way to end our trip, we were still glad we drove out there and experienced the beautiful countryside, picked up some great souvenirs (like truffle pasta and chocolate with truffles in it), experienced a “truffle meal” for ourselves and met such a nice baker. I think my expectations were a little too high for our meal but aside from that we had a great stay.

I can’t speak for my husband on his over all impressions of Italy after our trip but when someone asks me what I thought I can easily say the more rural parts of the trip in Bologna and Manarola were my favorite because the countryside was beautiful and the people were so nice. I also was so thankful that we live in Northern California were we have some awesome quality food, amazing views, nice people, and places to visit just like Italy! I hear so many people who are blown away by Italy and ready to move there but for me, while I enjoyed Italy, I am quite happy where we live already and would never want to move to Italy when we have so many things where we live already! I definitely would recommend Italy as a destination to see on your own.

Below are the links to all of the stops we made in Italy. Enjoy!

Read Italy Stop 1: Rome here!
Read Italy Stop 2: Florence here!
Read Italy Stop 3: Manarola (Cinque Terre) here!
Read Italy Stop 4: Milan & Lake Maggiore here!
Read Italy Stop 5: Venice here!
Read Italy Stop 6: Bologna here!

Italy Stop 6: Bologna

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Read Italy Stop 1: Rome here!
Read Italy Stop 2: Florence here!
Read Italy Stop 3: Manarola (Cinque Terre) here!
Read Italy Stop 4: Milan & Lake Maggiore here!
Read Italy Stop 5: Venice here!

For the first part of our trip my husband and I used trains to travel between cities and the local public transportation or our feet to see the city. Many of the cities we saw up through Venice don’t even allow cars into their centers or have extremely limited parking so not having a car was the best bet. But for the last part of our trip we were going rural and a car was the best way to go. So we reserved the cheapest, tiniest car possible and this is what they gave us out of all the normal colored cars on the lot:

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An Easter egg blue Citroen C1. That happened to match my phone case almost exactly. My husband did all the driving and tells me the car was really fun to drive. It also wasn’t that bad driving in Italy (again, we were in rural parts for the driving parts of our trip) but we wouldn’t have ventured into city centers.

Our first stop as we made our way to Bologna (where we were staying 30 minutes outside in a town called Budrio) was in Modena for a tour at Acetaia di Giorgio to see how authentic balsamic vinegar is made.
IMG_5161If I had to name the most “life changing” part of our trip to Italy, it would be this balsamic vinegar tour and the subsequent tasting of the vinegar. It would be akin to being a seafood lover but all you’ve had is fishsticks and then finally tasting lobster. All of a sudden your eyes open wide and you think, “OHHHH, that’s what good [balsamic vinegar, or seafood, or insert a thing here] is!!!” I would highly recommend this tour to anyone who has an appreciation of things that taste amazing. Also, we learned when we got there that there was a New York Times article on this place. Please forgive them for their use of the word, “foodie” in the article from 2005.

The next day we had a cooking class in Bologna that we had been looking forward to. It wasn’t our first time being taught to make pasta, but we had never rolled pasta entirely by hand before.

IMG_5225We took our class from an ex-American who runs the class from her home and we happened to be the only two for the class on this rainy day. Her business is called Taste of Italy and when signing up you are able to select what three dishes you would like to learn to prepare. When we arrived we were put to work creating our pasta on a special wood pasta board and with special pasta rolling pins.

IMG_5226I’ll try and do a more complete post on this experience because we definitely learned from it but I would say it was also worth taking for the good company and talking to a local.

The first dish we made was farfalle with fresh local Italian artichokes, olive oil, garlic and hot pepper. It was very simple and a great way to enjoy the handmade pasta.

IMG_5264The one thing I absolutely wanted to learn how to make was tortellino which we filled with roasted butternut squash, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg. They were tossed in butter and our instructor had some of the balsamic vinegar on hand that we had tasted the day before. These were amazing.

IMG_5265The final dish we made was tagliatelle with a ragu which folks outside of Italy call “bolognese” (get it? From Bologna?) in reference to a meat sauce. I’ll bet that when you or I think of “bolognese” you think of what I do, a rich meaty, garlicky, red sauce. Finding out that this garlic and tomato-less sauce was the actual ragu in Bologna was a little surprise but it was still very good. However, I love tomatoes and garlic in my sauce so I will most likely continue making the Americanized version.

IMG_5268The tale of this stop in Italy would not be complete without mentioning that we had our favorite accommodations of the whole trip while here. Originally I told my husband I wanted to stay at an agriturismo because of the lower price and also the fact that we could stay on a farm. A farm! The lower price definitely was a big attraction so we didn’t expect much but when we arrived at Agritruismo Santissima Trinita outside of Bologna we couldn’t believe our eyes! First of all, our host, Daniela, was exceptionally nice. Secondly, we basically had a one-bedroom stand-alone building to spread out in. Why didn’t we plan to stay here longer!?

IMG_5183When we arrived we didn’t know there was a whole kitchen but after our pasta-making/feasting we took advantage of the kitchen to make ourselves a small dinner and stay in that night and out of the pouring rain. Here’s the building that we had all to ourselves:

IMG_0744The main building, where an excellent spread of breakfast food is laid out each morning, is a 16th-century building that has been fully updated. We didn’t dine in the restaurant but fully enjoyed the breakfasts and chatting with Daniela each morning.

IMG_0745If my husband and I could get married again, I think this would be a beautiful place to do it!

This part of our trip was one of my favorite locations (the other being Manarola) because of the fun stuff we did, the beautiful countryside, and a great meal the first night at a place I can’t remember the name of. Instead of sightseeing my husband and I were able to enjoy each others company and relax.

Read Italy Stop 7: Norcia here!

Italy Stop 5: Venice

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Read Italy Stop 1: Rome here!
Read Italy Stop 2: Florence here!
Read Italy Stop 3: Manarola (Cinque Terre) here!
Read Italy Stop 4: Milan & Lake Maggiore here!

It remained freezing cold and rainy as we made our way by train to our next destination: Venice. Luckily the rain let up for the rest of our stay there but it remained quite cold. I for one was glad it was cold because I had heard stories of this city stinking to the high heavens when it’s hot out and the water is low. For us, it was high tide and there was no stench. On our first full day, we set off to take a public vaporetto– which are like water buses in Venice– tour with one of our Rick Steves audio tours.
IMG_0716I’m glad that my husband and I were able to see some of the flooding of the city going on because it’s actually quite interesting. It made us both wonder how much longer the city will last with such extreme flooding going on.

IMG_0704Many of the buildings in Venice have their first floors regularly flooded and some are uninhabited because of it. But seeing the detailed architecture of the buildings was an interesting glimpse into another time when this area was known for all the rich merchants who partied here.

IMG_0720The picture above is a view from the water, during high tide, into San Marco square. Waves were lapping up past the parked gondolas onto the stones of the square as tourists made their way along gangways put out so those without rain boots wouldn’t get their feet wet.

In the picture below you can see that most of the square had water covering it but off to the left, where you see a wall of people, there are the planks laid out for people to walk on. The people you see walking through the water had obviously planned ahead and wore rain boots or bought plastic covers for their shoes to wade through the water.

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IMG_5090It’s just amazing that this city manages to function with daily flooding. You may have seen a news article about Venice flooding where the arms of chairs like those above were barely visible. That was just two weeks after we left. I’m certainly glad we didn’t experience that much flooding.

This is my husband questioning how buildings were ever built so darn close to sea level!?

IMG_5094My husband and I quickly agreed that there were too many people (all trying to avoid the water) so let’s use our vaporetto passes to head over to Murano and buy some glass! We were both enchanted by Murano’s more sparse walkways, colorful and more simple buildings, and all the glass.

IMG_5101Several tour books advised that most of the glass in Murano is not actually made here so we sought out the one recommended shop in hopes of authentic Italian glass. We found the small, colorful shop and found several items to bring home. The shopkeeper (who said she lives on Murano) also told us that the shop floods every morning! But that the other side of the canal usually gets even worse flooding. When you look around the shop you notice that all the shelves have metal legs lifting them higher off the ground so that there aren’t issues with the water.

IMG_5103Murano had a few glass sculptures on display with an obvious nod to why the tourists flocked there.

IMG_5106But the glass sculpture of fire wasn’t helping us to stay very warm.

IMG_5107With some trinkets to take home with us we decided to head back to Venice proper and see San Marco square now that the water had subsided and we could more easily walk around. At this point in our trip we were pretty churched out and didn’t end up using our Rick Steves tours for the church or the square. Plus, did I mention it was cold?

IMG_5113In order to get away from the crowds my husband finally convinced me to venture out with him and “get lost.”

IMG_5115Many of the narrow alleys had water still drying in them or the gangway/walkways still set up from the morning’s flooding. Looking at the bottom of the buildings you could see how the salt water eats away at the structures.

IMG_0726Despite how sad it is that this city is decaying, it is also still quite beautiful with charming bridges, boats everywhere and so much to look at.

IMG_5127There is certainly no other city like Venice in the world and it’s mind blowing to take it all in no matter how many pictures you see of it. I was also surprised by just how many gondolas there were! There are about as many gondolas in the canals everywhere as there are taxis on the streets of New York.  As for whether we took the gondola ride or not, we did not. Why? Because the price (80 euro for 40 minutes, 40 more euro for 20 more minutes) was a little too high for us. The more gondoals I saw, all packed together, with some tourists sharing a gondola, the less it felt like “a romantic” thing and more like a touristy thing to do in Venice. My husband and I enjoyed ourselves more wandering around on our own than we would have packed in a tiny boat with people we didn’t know.

IMG_5132Venice is interesting for many reasons but among them, they do not have any cars on the island. That means that everything must be done by boat. When I saw the trash boat I got very excited because it hadn’t sunk in yet despite seeing some DHL delivery boats scooting around. See the green boat in the middle of the canal below? It’s the trash boat! Instead of a garbage truck! It makes sense it was just one of those things that had never occurred to me before.

IMG_5137The pillars (sorry I think there’s another name for them?) in the water in front of establishments indicate what the business is based on their colors.

IMG_5140Venice is a great city to walk around but it’s very crowded with tourists even during the off-season. It’s a MUST to wander and find empty canals and bridges to enjoy peacefully and take in the carless city sounds.

IMG_5145My husband, finding another sweet shop to stare longingly into:

IMG_5146Sadly this city is slowly but surely losing its population as it continues to decay. However, the tourists visiting keep it financially afloat. Pun intended.

IMG_5149Here’s another great example of everything being done by boat in Venice… instead of a produce stand there’s a produce boat!

IMG_5150Our exploration was wrapped up with a splendid sunset. We had found ourselves in the southwest part of the island and while we waited for our vaporetto, watched the sun sink into the horizon amid a glorious display of colors.

IMG_5154For dinner we stopped into a quiet restaurant. Or at least it was at first. When we arrived, we were the first ones there for the evening while the bartender and his mother got some things ready for service. She wrapped up and headed to the kitchen to cook while he remained behind the bar and serving tables.

As we enjoyed a drink, four men walked in and to the bar where the bartender, upon seeing them enter, already had their four drinks poured. Shortly after, a large, boisterous Italian man walked in singing and greeting the bartender and the four men. He received a glass of wine and went off to see Mama in the kitchen (which we could see through a window at the back of the restaurant). As he came back to the bar area, he came to talk to my husband and I… in Italian. Neither of us had any idea what was really going on but he seemed very friendly (and drunk) and apparently was thrilled to discover that we both had blue eyes. He soon departed and my husband and I decided to take a table for dinner.

Dinner was really excellent and was typical Venetian food. My husband enjoyed Mama’s liver and onions and I had stuffed squid which was killer. As we were wrapping up and heading out, our new Italian friend was back and addressing us while asking Mama to come out of the kitchen and have a glass of wine with him. I’m not entirely sure what he was talking about but the bartender informed us that this fellow, who would occasionally break into opera, was known as “The Voice of Venice.” I wish I knew more Italian because I’m pretty certain that I would have loved to know what he was saying. Either way, Mama came out of the kitchen and we asked to take a picture with The Voice of Venice and Mama which only required a little instruction to another Italian man on how to use an iPhone to take a picture.

IMG_1704What a perfect way to wrap up our stay in Venice.

Italy Stop 4: Milan & Lake Maggiore

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Read Italy Stop 1: Rome here!
Read Italy Stop 2: Florence here!
Read Italy Stop 3: Manarola (Cinque Terre) here!

When my husband was 16, he and his friend visited Milan and stayed with his mother’s friend, Giovanna. She showed them Venice and took them around the area touring churches and museums. It was a given that we would visit her during our trip to Italy and we are so thankful for her and her son, Fabrizio, giving us a tour around from a local!

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Fabrizio whisked us off when we arrived in Milan and gave us the abbreviated tour of several landmarks. It was raining and cold so it was exceptionally nice of him to brave the weather to drag two wide-eyed Americans through the city. One of our stops, at the mall near Milan’s duomo, was this tiled bull. The tradition is to turn on your heel on the bull’s gonads and you will one day return to Milan. Looks like I’ll be heading back one day!
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Milan’s duomo is very ornate, a classic Gothic structure. It underwent a cleaning that was completed in 2009 which becomes more obvious when you see the inside of the church and how years and years of grime have changed the color of the stone. Notice all the umbrellas in the picture below, it was raining quite hard!
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Giovanna and Fabrizio took us to a risotteria for dinner and we enjoyed the classic Milan dish. The next day, Giovanna, knowing how much my husband and I appreciate good food and good ingredients, took us to one of the best butcher/meat shops in Milan.
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We squished in among the locals on their Saturday morning shopping trips and took in the smells, the sights, the smells, the interesting hair styles, the smells, and all the meat! My husband was happy to be in the presence of so much prosciutto.
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Our destination was ultimately Lake Maggiore, but on the way we came across the Lindt chocolate factory. I know they sell this stuff in the states, but it’s still impressive to be at the mothership! Besides, anything with Italian-only packaging somehow tastes better.
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Do you think these would fit in our luggage?
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This box was as big as my duffel bag!
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Naturally I picked up some things for Christmas presents and then spotted the cafe. What better place to order hot chocolate (on a still very cold day)!? This stuff is practically pudding, not that watery Swiss Miss stuff at all. And it was so good.
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On our way out this bunny almost lost an eye.
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With a full stash of chocolate goodies we made it to the coast of Lake Maggiore. This is looking at the little town, Luino, on a very windy (see the white cap waves!?) and chilly day. While my husband and I were cursing ourselves for packing for cold weather when it was 90-degrees Fahrenheit in Rome, we were thankful to have layers and long sleeves for the rest of our trip.
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My beloved and I walked to the centro of Luino for a local glass of prosecco and potato chips. We watched locals and vacationers — who are mostly Italians and Swiss with vacation homes here– go about their day.
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We stayed with Giovanna at the family’s condo in Germingnaga (right next to Luino) that had a breathtaking view of Lake Maggiore.
IMG_5065Over night there was a ridiculous amount of wind and temperatures dropped even further. Much of the area got its first dusting of snow while we were there at the end of October. I thought it was fascinating that there was a clear line of snow on the surrounding mountains! I’ve never seen anything like it before.

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On a very chilly morning, Giovanna took us to her son’s favorite cafe for breakfast (aka pastries) and something warm to drink. I was over excited to point out to my husband that the little ridged pastries you see on the below right are exactly like a much larger version sold in Boston’s Italian North End at Mike’s Pastries. But they call them lobster tails. I’m sure that’s not the name in Italy.
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My husband enjoyed a happy little cappuccino. Get it!? Happy!? Because there’s a smiley face!? You get it.
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Most of the Italians skipped these cute and delicious pastries for a croissant with Nutella or jam and their coffee. I was glad to switch up my morning sugar and butter intake from the flaky croissant to the sugar dusted cream puffs. And hey, some had fruit on them. So that obviously makes them healthy.
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Guys, it was so cold. Nonetheless, Giovanna encouraged us to walk up to a vista in which we accidentally rambled through some sort of Italian Swiss celebration. I didn’t take any pictures because some of the people were wearing army-type uniforms and I had no idea what they were doing. But we did get another shot of us with the crazy snow line in the background again.
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We drove across the border into Switzerland to Lugano. Check out that snow line again! I still can’t believe it.
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Last one of that snow line, I promise. Has anyone ever seen something like this before?
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We took a mostly-by-car tour of Lugano, Switzerland because it was so very cold but it was an interesting contrast to the Italian towns we had been rambling through. We then headed to Lake Como and saw their church, the lake there, and a few of the shops that attract summer vacationers like George Clooney. I’m sure he wasn’t hanging around on such a brutally cold day.

IMG_5085My husband and I are so thankful to have someone who knew the area show us around and he really enjoyed catching up with Giovanna. She was way above and beyond generous and we were happy to be able to visit her and see so much of the area.

Read Italy Stop 5: Venice here!

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